lundi 24 novembre 2008

Day 4: Day of rest

I haven't uploaded as many photos today. My body was trying to tell me that I am pushing myself too hard: too much walking (5km yesterday alone), not enough sleeping and not enough water. (Keep in mind that the anti-malarial drug I am taking leaves you dry mouthed anyway.) The water situation caught up with me last night when I woke up at about 3am feeling very dehydrated. I drank the 1/4 bottle (about 1/2 litre) of water I had left but it didn't satisfy me. I was out and still thirsty. The hotel staff were gone for the night and it was an odd feeling knowing there was water in the tap I can't drink.

Also I have had a lot of trouble sleeping. I just can't unwind and fall asleep. My mind is racing with all the things I have seen and done, also thinking of people at home and then there is the time difference. It's hard to fall asleep at 7pm Eastern Standard Time. I toss and turn and finally get to sleep at around 2-3am local time and then the muezzin starts in at 6.

So I did two things today. I went and bought LOTS of water. You'd amazed at how much I have drank and how much better that has made me feel. I also resolved not to try to adjust to the local time anymore. I have finally figured out the local weather pattern. It is hot and oppressive with lots of bugs pestering you in the morning and then at about 2pm the sea breeze kicks in, it feels 10 degrees cooler and the bugs are gone. Why not just sleep in and avoid the worst part of the day?

(On a good note, I am a mosquito magnet. They find me from miles away but I haven't seen a single mosquito since I got here and haven't had any bug bites.)

I made a first run at trying to mail off postcards today. The post office is on Rue du Général DeGaulle which is also where the street traders are. So you have to take a deep breath and make a beeline to where you are going. Any hesitation and they swoop down on you like flies and try to lead you to their spread of wood statues and masks. But when I got to the Post Office the attendant said that they aren't taking mail now and to come back in an hour. I am going to make another run in a few. I have post cards for family and friends and for those who asked who asked here. Sénégal's mail service is supposed to be reliable but if it doesn't make it, it isn't because of a lack of trying.

The other thing that struck me is all the street singing you hear. I passed one man with a Qur'an or prayer book singing out his prayers on my way to the Post Office. It was absolutely beautiful to listen to! There are a few others that were doing the same but this one man had a voice like velvet and a real musical sensibility. He should get a recording contract.

On my walk back from the failed attempt to mail my cards, the muezzin started in but very few people actually stopped and prayed. I get the feeling this is a relatively secular city focused on getting business done. About 20% of the population dresses traditionally and the rest dress in western clothes.

UPDATE: Allah be praised! I got to Rue du Général DeGaule just as a bus was unloading French tourists. I was able to get to the Post Office unhassled. The street traders were far too busy with new victims to shake down. I got my post cards mailed!

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